PFAS – The Forever Chemicals

PFAS – The Forever Chemicals

PFAS (Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl substances) are synthetic substances that have been used worldwide since 1940 as repellent finishes in non-stick cookware, water-repellent clothing, stain resistant fabrics, cosmetics, and other consumer products that resist grease and oil due to their water and stain resistant properties.

They are often referred to as forever chemicals due to their inability to safely breakdown in the environment. Over time they can accumulate in the body, causing issues with the endocrine system, kidney and liver function, and they have been linked to cancer.

PFAS chemistry

The definition of PFAS continues to evolve to reflect the continuous research into these chemicals. A widely recognised technical definition of PFAS comes from Buck et al. (2011), defining PFAS as “highly fluorinated aliphatic substances that contain one or more carbon (C) atoms on which all the hydrogen (H) substituents have been replaced by fluorine (F) atoms”.

There are currently well over 4,000 chemicals listed that fall under this definition. This list continues to expand as more and more PFAS can be identified and quantified by analysis. All of the chemicals possess the same stain and water repellent properties but vary slightly in their chain length and functional groups.

The PFAS family contains two primary classes: polymers and non-polymers. Each class can be further divided into subclasses and group. The image below helps to visualise the categorization of the PFAS family.  

PFAS — Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (itrcweb.org)

PFAS effects on health

PFAS can migrate into the soil, water, and air during production and use. As a result of their persistent nature, they can accumulate in the environment, and have been found in the blood of people and animals all over the world, and are present at low levels in a range of food products.

A study carried out by Greenpeace back in 2015 found traces of PFAS in freshly fallen snow samples in the most remote parts of the world. As PFAS chemicals do not occur naturally, it demonstrates how they can travel around the world in the atmosphere, either as gas or bound to dust particles, until they are washed out in rain or snow. 

The predominant risks of exposure are drinking contaminated water, eating fish caught from waters contaminated by PFAS, eating food packaged in material that contains PFAS and using consumer products such as stain resistant carpeting and water repellent clothing.

At present, there are several studies examining the relationship between levels of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in the blood and the effects on human health. It is suggested that high levels of certain PFAS may lead to the following:

• Increased cholesterol levels
• Changes in liver enzymes
• Small decrease in infant birth weights increased risk of kidney and testicular cancer.
• Increased risk of high blood pressure or pre-eclampsia in pregnant women

PFAS legislation

Due to the rising health concerns, and pressures from NGOs and ecolabels, more stringent legislation is being implemented for PFAS chemicals.

Up until recently, many countries have only legislated specific substances within the PFAS family. Currently, the EU has restrictions under the POPs regulation (Persistent Organic Pollutants) on PFOS and PFOA their salts and related substances.

There is further EU legislation concerning PFAS being included in EU REACH Annex XVII in February 2023. The restriction is detailed in entry 68, where it states the use and placing on the market of C9-C14 perfluorocarboxylic acids (PFCAs) including their salts and related substances, in substances, mixtures and articles is banned except if the concentration in the substance, the mixture, or the article is below 25 ppb for the sum of C9-C14 PFCAs and their salts or 260 ppb for the sum of C9-C14 PFCA-related substances.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in America has stated it will use all available statutory authorities to prevent PFAS exposure and contamination in the environment and during consumer use.

The following new state bills that are applicable to the softlines and leather, toys and hardlines industries have been introduced, or remain in committee:

• California: prohibiting or, in certain circumstances, restricting use of PFAS in textiles (AB 1817), requiring registration for PFAS and PFAS-containing products or components (AB 2247)
• Colorado: establishes a regulatory scheme that collects information from product manufacturers regarding the use of PFAS chemicals in their products and phases out the sale or distribution of products that contain intentionally added PFAS chemicals (HB 22-1345).
• Massachusetts: restricting use of PFAS in various consumer products, including in child passenger restraints, cookware, fabric treatments, personal care products, rugs and carpets, and upholstered furniture (H 2350).
• Minnesota: restricting use of PFAS in apparel or outerwear (HF 3076/SF 3345), carpets/rugs, fabric treatments, textile furnishings, and upholstered furniture (HF 3180/SF 3307), juvenile products (HF 3571), and requiring notice to Minnesota’s Pollution Control Agency of products that contain PFAS (HF 3075/SF 3326).
• New York: restricting use of PFAS in anti-fogging sprays and wipes (S8188) carpets (S5027B), apparel (S6291), and cosmetics (S8364) and phasing out the sale of products that contain intentionally added PFAS (A8491).
• Rhode Island: restricting use of PFAS in carpets/rugs, common apparel, cookware, cosmetics, fabric treatments, textile furnishings, upholstered furniture, juvenile products, and outdoor apparel (HB 7436) and food packaging (H 7438/S 2044 and SB 2049), as well as requiring a warning label if PFAS are intentionally added to carpeting, clothing, or packaging and packaging components (SB 2049).
• Vermont: restricting use of PFAS in food packaging, cookware and utensils (H.650), cosmetics (H.677), and if intentionally used in products generally and prohibited entirely by 2030 (H.650).

With increasing public pressure and ever-expanding legislation on PFAS chemicals, many retailers and manufacturers are looking for alternatives to the restricted PFAS substance. Some are aiming to achieve this by using substances within the PFAS family with varying chain lengths which are not yet restricted, but the legislative landscape seems to be moving towards broader PFAS legislation and ultimately working towards a total PFAS phase out. This makes identifying alternative means to achieve the desired benefits of PFAS, but greener chemistry a necessity. Many global brands are looking to eliminate the use of PFAS in their clothing altogether and have clear, time-bound commitments to phase out all PFAS from their products.

At the same time, retailers should work with the products' suppliers to ensure that the products comply with current and potential future legislation.

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