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LWG improves RSL management

23rd May, 2011

The positive impact of the Leather Working Group continues to grow as an increasing number of stakeholders from all sectors of the supply chain are getting involved in the programme.

From the tanner's perspective not only does it offer the opportunity to strengthen their position in the supply chain, but also to realise cost savings through the potential energy reductions, water savings, and chemical efficiencies that are highlighted in the audit process. Manufacturers using leather also benefit from the higher performance levels that tanners are able to realise through the process, for example, the protocol encourages the management of restricted substances which has led to a position where LWG audited tanners now exhibit a lower probability of recording Restricted Substances failures than non-audited tanners.

Although many tanners initially became involved in the LWG programme through the encouragement of their customers there is increasing realisation that the improvements that the protocol promotes can lead to cost savings and efficiencies as well as reduction in environmental impact.

In the protocol energy usage is assessed on the basis of the amount of energy used per square metre of leather produced (or per tonne of hide processed). Attainment of higher medal ratings requires lower energy consumption. By the confidential uses of data for benchmarking purposes many tanners have been able to appreciate that some tanners operating in the same sector are much more energy efficient. This has promoted an interest in energy saving to the effect that analysis of energy use in successive audit periods shows that since 2008 the average energy consumption for tanners in the "Raw to Finished Leather" category fell from just over 60MJ per square metre to just under 40MJ per square metre, whilst for those in the "Wet Blue to Finished Leather" category the fall was from just over 40 to just under 30 MJ per square metre.

Water consumption has also been shown to be falling as assessed by comparing average usage for 2008 audits against 2010 audits. Since 2008 the average water consumption for tanners in the "Raw to Finished Leather" category fell by 16 percent, for those in the "Wet Blue to Finished Leather" category the fall was 30 percent. Useful information is provided in the BLC Journal article Water - a precious commodity.

The auditing of restricted substances management is also leading to progressively improved performance of the tanners. This has been positively identified by those purchasing leather; a recent RSL survey of their supply based by an LWG brand highlighted a number of RSL failures, only one of which came from an LWG audited tannery. Analysis of audited performance supports this observation. The higher levels of performance in this section that result in medal rating require sound management of restricted substances, which inevitably leads to lower instances of failure. Over the life of the LWG program the number of tanners attaining Gold for restricted substance management on the first audit was just 25%, rising to 40% on the second audit and 57% on the third. As tanners become more aware of the requirements, management of this aspect of operations has improved. In 2011 to date 40% of tanners being audited for the first time attained Gold, all tanners being re-audited achieved this rating.

For further information on the LWG , please contact info@leatherworkinggroup.com

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